North into Israel's territory is Nazareth. Jesus was raised in Nazareth, so that brings some 2000 year old history to the table. Another place near by and still with in the West Bank is Sebastia, which is a village near Nablus.
Ancient coins... maybe...
Sebastia has roman ruins, which I have never seen in person before, having the art history background to be able to identify ruins and what time period they came from with in the Roman rule was very exciting.
Ruins in Sebastia
Wandering around with a boy speaking Arabic to me, and nodding along as if I understood this great history he was telling me was also pretty entertaining. The amphitheater was distinguishable, but otherwise it was truly up to the imagination to figure what these ruins use to look like. The child like imagination that is able to come out in these instances is marvelous, and I will never pass up an opportunity to explore.
Shawarma and a Coke
Sebastia is also home to the tomb of John the Baptist. Which consequently I could not find, but if you like religion.. I am sure you could find it. We grabbed some Shawarma, which had mustard in it, thats not normal for Shawarma, but it was delicious. Sitting in the town square watching life move around, feels serene.
Heading back to Nablus we decided to find one of the soap Shops that Tariq my travel buddy mentioned was the coolest place in the Old City. I cannot describe where this place is, other than at the entrance to the old city from the street project Hope is on.. you turn down a narrow road to the right and walk until you find it. It was beautiful with spices out in bags everywhere, incense and soap all made at the factory in Nablus. Even more magical was the back room set up like a bedouin tent, with treasures surrounding you.
Old City Streets
During the many conflicts that have affected Nablus some people fled their homes, and some homes were destroyed. The man who owns this shop, went around collecting valuables, in hopes that people would return and be able to reclaim their valuables. When people returned, they let him keep their valuables in this room as a show case of their culture for visitors that were coming to Nablus, and as thanks to the owners for collecting them.
Video of the best Kanafe shop in Nablus and how quickly this stuff is snatched up
After the soap shop, it was early afternoon which in Nablus means time for Kanafe. Kanafe is amazing, its a sweet cheese desert, and no written description could give it justice. Nablus is known for its Kanafe being the best, other Arab cities do not even compare. So we headed to get some Kanafe, and people were already lined up to grab some for later in the afternoon.
"The best Kanafe is made with Nablusian water and Nablusian Cheese, the rest is just not the same."
A good day around Nablus involves Shawarma, ancient ruins, soap and Kanafe. The turkish baths would have been a perfect way to finish off this Nablusian day, but the Baths are only open to women Tuesday and Sunday, so instead I will be heading their before I leave.
If you are ever in Nablus for a day, I would have to say a walk through the old city, Kanafe, that beautiful soap shop and venturing 15 minutes out of the city to Sebastia for some ancient ruins is the perfect way to spend it.
It is interesting writing these posts as I can go from one day writing about a political demonstration to the next being a day filled with touristy firsts. Life in Palestine is surly a trip.
-Jliv.
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